How to Hem Shorts the Right Way

How short should the shorts be?

Decide the length while wearing the shorts, in front of a mirror and with the shoes you will actually wear. The most common lengths are just above the knee, mid-thigh or shorter – but the most important thing is that both legs end up exactly the same length. Turn up one side to the length you want, measure the distance from a fixed reference (the crotch seam, for example) down to the fold, and use exactly the same measurement on the other leg. Remember that shorts taper towards the hem, so a hem folded up high becomes wider than the leg above it – you need to allow for that (see the pitfalls below).

How to hem shorts at home

Once the length is decided, you need a tape measure, pins, an iron, thread in a matching colour and either a sewing machine or a needle for a blind hem. On an unlined pair the job rarely takes long.

1. Put the shorts on and mark the finished length you want with a pin or chalk on both legs.
2. Add hem allowance below the mark – usually 2–4 cm depending on how deep a hem you want – and cut off the rest. If in doubt, cut cautiously; you can always take off more.
3. Finish the raw edge so it will not fray: zigzag, overlock or a narrow fold-under.
4. Turn up the hem, press it flat with the iron, and pin all the way round.
5. Sew the hem with a straight stitch in matching thread, or blind-stitch it by hand. Give it a final press.

Denim shorts: the easy frayed edge

If you are making cut-offs from a pair of jeans or shortening denim shorts, the frayed edge is the easiest option of all – it needs neither sewing nor edge finishing. Cut straight across a little longer than you want them (fraying eats up a few millimetres), and let the edge fray naturally. For an even edge you can pull out the horizontal threads with a needle or tweezers until you have the fringe length you like, then run the shorts through the washing machine to bring out the soft, worn edge. If you want to stop the fraying at some point, sew a single straight line a couple of centimetres above the edge.

Common pitfalls

Most failed hems come down to the same mistakes. Check these before you cut:

• Unequal length: measure both legs from the same reference point – judging by eye alone almost always misses.
• Too little hem allowance: cut too close to the finished length and there is not enough fabric to turn up. Cut long first.
• Tapered leg: because the shorts narrow, a deep hem ends up wider than the leg it lies against. Keep the hem shallow, or take it in slightly at the side seam so it sits flat.
• Wrong thread: use thread that matches the original stitching in colour and weight so the new hem does not stand out.

When is it worth leaving it to a tailor?

Unlined cotton and linen shorts are easy to do yourself. But some cases are worth a professional: thick denim shorts with several layers at the side seam that an ordinary machine cannot get through, tailored or lined shorts with a vent or lining, or when you want to keep the original edge – a double-stitched, contrast-thread denim hem, for instance, that is hard to recreate at home. A tailor can then shorten them from the top and put the original hem back, so the result looks factory-made. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions