How to Hem Suit Trousers the Right Way

Why suit trousers are hemmed differently from jeans

Jeans you can cut, fold and sew with a visible machine stitch – that's part of the look. Suit trousers are the opposite: they should look as if they were never touched. Four things make them more demanding. The fabric is light worsted wool that frays and presses out of line easily. A knife-sharp crease runs down the front and back that must continue right into the new edge. The hem should be an invisible blind stitch that doesn't show on the face. And at the back bottom there is often a hard-wearing heel tape that protects the edge from the shoe heel – it has to go back in. So a good hem is as much about pressing and detail as about the stitch itself.

Measure the length correctly – with your shoes on

The wrong length is the one mistake you can't sew your way out of, so take your time here. Length is set by the shoes you'll actually wear and how much 'break' (the small fold where the trouser leg meets the shoe) you want.

1. Put the trousers on with the shoes and belt you'll wear them with, and stand naturally upright.
2. Decide the break: no break gives a clean, modern length; a slight break (the trouser just rests on the shoe) is the classic standard; a full break leaves more fabric folding over the instep.
3. Fold the leg up on the inside to the desired length and pin it right at the edge, at the front.
4. Measure the same length on the other leg – most people aren't perfectly symmetrical, so measure both, don't just copy the number.
5. Leave the back of the leg a couple of millimetres longer than the front, so the edge follows the heel neatly.

Plain hem or cuff?

Before you sew, decide the edge: a plain hem (invisible edge) or a cuff (a visible turn-up at the bottom). The choice is both style and technique – and it affects how much fabric length you need.

• Plain hem: clean and timeless, works for most suits, and needs the least fabric – the safe choice.
• Cuff (turn-up): more classic and formal, adds a little weight that helps the trouser hang well, but needs extra length and more work.
• If the trousers already have cuffs, keep the style; and never pair cuffs with very formal tuxedo trousers, where a plain hem is the rule.

How to hem with an invisible blind stitch

Once length and edge are decided, a plain hem can be done by hand with a little patience. The point is that the stitches barely catch the face, so the edge stays invisible from outside.

1. Turn the leg inside out and mark the new edge all the way round, with an even hem allowance of about 4–5 cm inside it.
2. Unpick the original hem carefully and press the fabric flat, so you work from a clean starting point.
3. If shortening a lot, cut away the excess fabric but leave the hem allowance, and overcast the edge so the wool doesn't fray.
4. Fold up to the mark, press the fold, and pin all the way round.
5. Sew a blind stitch by hand: catch only one or two threads of the outer fabric per stitch, so the seam doesn't show on the front.
6. Press the hem lightly at the end with a pressing cloth in between, so the wool doesn't go shiny.

Don't forget the crease and the heel tape

Two details separate an amateur hem from a professional one. The crease at the front and back must continue straight down into the new edge – lay the trousers flat, let the old creases meet exactly, and press the new crease with steam and a cloth right down to the edge. At the back bottom you should insert or move the heel tape: the small strip that sits slightly below the back edge and takes the wear from the shoe heel, so the edge doesn't wear through. Skip the heel tape and the edge looks fine today, but frays first at the back where you can't see it.

When should you let a tailor take the job?

A plain hem on a simple pair is manageable at home. But some jobs are worth handing over: lined or patterned trousers where the edge and crease must match exactly, cuffs, delicate or expensive wool qualities, and anything being lengthened – there the original fold line and limited fabric restrict what you can do, and an old crease line can stay visible. If you want a machine-perfect blind hem, a continued crease and the right heel tape without trial and error, you can send the trousers to us – you order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions