Grafting Knits: An Invisible Join with Kitchener Stitch

What grafting is – and when to use it

Grafting is a hand seam that creates a new 'row of knitting' in yarn between two sets of live stitches, so the two pieces flow seamlessly into each other. Because you mimic the shape of the stitch, there is neither a visible edge nor a stiff seam – the join stretches and bends like the rest of the knitting. That is why the technique is preferred where an ordinary seam would rub or show: sock toes, the tops of mittens and hats, shoulder seams, the underarms of seamless sweaters, and when you need an invisible join after repairing a section. The alternative – binding off both pieces and sewing them together – gives a thicker, less elastic edge.

Preparation: equal stitches on two needles

Grafting requires live stitches, that is open loops that have not been bound off. If you have cut or repaired a section, the stitches must first be picked up onto needles before you can graft.

• Have an equal number of stitches on two needles, held parallel with the wrong sides together and the needle tips pointing the same way.
• Use the same yarn as in the garment, and measure out a strand about three times the length of the join.
• Thread the yarn into a blunt-tipped tapestry needle, so you do not split the yarn in the stitches.
• Work in good light and calm – even tension and the right order are all it takes for the join to disappear.

How to graft stockinette, step by step

This is the classic Kitchener method for stockinette. Start with two setup stitches, then repeat the four main steps until all the stitches are used up. A common memory phrase is 'knit–purl front, purl–knit back'.

1. Setup front: pass the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl, but leave the stitch on the needle.
2. Setup back: pass the needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, and leave that one on too.
3. Front, step 1: go into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, and slip it off the needle.
4. Front, step 2: go into the new first stitch on the front needle as if to purl, and leave it on.
5. Back, step 1: go into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, and slip it off the needle.
6. Back, step 2: go into the new first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, and leave it on.
7. Repeat the last four steps across, adjusting the tension as you go so the new stitches match the surrounding knitting. Secure the yarn on the wrong side at the end.

Ribbing and pattern are harder

The method above is for stockinette, where every stitch on the right side is a knit. To graft ribbing, cables or other patterns, each stitch has to follow whether the stitch is a knit or a purl at that point – so you alternate between a 'knit graft' and a 'purl graft' according to the pattern. Do it as if it were all stockinette and some stitches end up twisted and the join shows clearly. If the knit is very fine, dark or dense, it is also harder to see the stitches and keep even tension, so it pays to practise on a swatch first.

Common mistakes – and how to avoid them

Most failed grafts come down to a few things that are easy to correct:

• Yarn pulled too tight gives a narrow, puckered join – keep the same tension as the rest of the knitting and adjust each stitch before tightening.
• Yarn left too loose gives slack, large stitches – go back and snug them up with the needle tip once the row is done.
• Twisted stitches happen when you enter the wrong way; follow the 'knit–purl / purl–knit' rhythm carefully.
• If you lose count, place a stitch marker every few stitches so you can find your place again.

Send the knitwear to us

If the garment is hand-knitted, valuable or important to you, or the join sits in a pattern you cannot get to blend in, you can send the knit to us rather than risk a visible seam. We look at the garment and find the best solution for that specific knit. If the sweater also has a dropped stitch, a hole or a worn edge, we can assess that in the same round. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions