Should You Hem Trousers Yourself or Use a Tailor?

Three ways to hem trousers yourself

There are three common home methods, and they suit different trousers. Choose by how visible the hem will be and how durable it needs to be:

• Hem tape (iron-on hem): fastest and completely sew-free. Fine for a simple, straight hem on thin, non-stretch fabric – but less durable over time and not suited to thick denim or stretch.
• Invisible hand hem: gives the most control and does not show on the right side. A little time-consuming, but the best choice for wool and dress trousers if you are careful.
• Sewing machine: durable and quick, but leaves a visible topstitch at the bottom. Perfectly fine on jeans, chinos and casual trousers where a stitch line belongs.

How to hem with hem tape

The easiest method if you would rather not sew. Take your time on the measuring – hem tape is harder to undo than a seam.

1. Put the trousers on with the shoes you will actually wear, fold up to the desired length and pin in place.
2. Mark the fold line all the way round, take the trousers off and check both legs are exactly the same length.
3. Cut away the excess fabric, but leave enough for a hem of a couple of centimetres.
4. Lay iron-on hem tape inside the fold between the fabric layers, and press with a hot iron and a damp cloth on top – follow the time on the pack.
5. Let the hem cool completely before wearing, so the adhesive sets.

How to sew an invisible hand hem

A little more work, but it lasts and does not show on the outside. This is the method for smart trousers you want to keep.

1. Fold and pin the hem to the right length as above, and press the fold flat.
2. Fold the hem edge back slightly, so you sew hidden between the layers.
3. Catch only a thread or two of the outer fabric with each stitch – then nothing shows on the right side.
4. Sew all the way round with small, even stitches and secure the thread well at the end.
5. Press the hem at the end for a clean, flat finish.

The right length before you cut

Most home mistakes are about length, not stitching. Always measure with the shoes you will wear with the trousers, and aim for a small 'break' where the fabric rests just over the shoe at the front. Check both legs are equal before you cut, and when in doubt: hem a touch too long rather than too short – you can always take more off, but you cannot add it back.

When should a tailor sew it?

Some trousers give a much neater result with a professional, and then it is worth sending them in. That covers lined trousers, where the lining has to be hemmed in the right proportion to the outer fabric; trousers with cuffs; jeans where you want to keep the original edge; thick denim; and dress trousers where a machine stitch would spoil the look. The same goes for garments that matter to you, or that have to match perfectly on both legs. Our tailors hem by garment and desired length, we pick up and deliver across Norway, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions