How to Re-proof Gloves and Mittens

Why gloves lose their water-repellency first

Gloves are among the fastest-wearing garments you own. The palm grips, rubs and carries, the fingertips are in constant use, and the seams sit exposed – which is exactly where the durable water-repellent (DWR) finish disappears first. On top of that the glove is pushed from the inside by heat and sweat from your hand. The result is that fingers and seams 'soak up' water and go cold and clammy long before the rest of the glove gives up. That is why it matters to treat these zones, not just spray an even coat over the outside.

Leather or textile? Check the glove type first

The material decides the whole method – and treating every glove the same is the most common mistake. Work out what you have before you start:

• Textile and membrane gloves (typical ski gloves): washed and re-proofed with DWR, much like a shell jacket.
• Leather gloves: no DWR spray. Leather needs a leather wax or balm that feeds the material and repels water.
• Combination gloves (leather palm, textile over): treat each part with the right product, and keep DWR spray off the leather.
• Mittens: the same rules as gloves, but fewer seams and larger surfaces make them easier to cover evenly.

How to re-proof textile and membrane gloves

For gloves with textile or a membrane, the principle is the same as for shell garments: clean first, then proof, then heat.

1. Wash the gloves clean with a technical wash made for shell garments – new DWR will not bond to dirt and body oils. Skip fabric softener entirely.
2. Prefer spray-on proofing for gloves. The spray stays on the outside and does not oversaturate the insulation and liner the way a wash-in can.
3. Spray an even coat, and work extra product into the fingertips, knuckles and seams where wear is greatest.
4. Wipe off excess spray with a cloth so it does not leave marks.
5. Activate the treatment with gentle heat per the care label – a short spell on low tumble heat, or air-dry in a warm spot.

Leather gloves: feed the leather, don't spray DWR

Leather gloves – and mittens with a leather palm – follow entirely different rules. Do not machine wash and do not use DWR spray made for textiles; it does little and can stain. Wipe off dirt with a damp cloth or a mild leather cleaner, and let the glove dry slowly at room temperature, never on a radiator or in strong heat that cracks the leather. Then massage in a thin layer of leather wax or balm, let it soak in, and buff lightly. That feeds the leather, keeps it supple and adds water-repellency at the same time. Repeat when the leather starts to feel dry or stops beading water.

Test and maintain through the season

You do not have to guess whether the gloves need re-proofing. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the back and fingers: if it beads and rolls off, the treatment is good; if it soaks in, it is time for another round. Between trips it pays to keep the gloves clean – dirt attracts water and breaks down the DWR – and to dry them fully after wet days. Damp gloves put away lose both insulation and water-repellency, but never dry them on strong heat.

When should you send the gloves to a professional?

If the gloves are leather, or expensive membrane gloves you would rather not risk, you can send them in instead of experimenting. The same goes if a seam has opened, a zip or strap needs repair, or the glove has started to delaminate. We clean and re-proof by material and care label – textile and membrane get a DWR treatment, leather gets conditioning – and can repair a seam or fastening in the same round. You order online from anywhere in Norway, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions