How to Re-proof Workwear the Right Way

Why workwear loses its repellency faster

Rugged workwear in cotton canvas, poly-cotton or ripstop keeps water and dirt out with a thin durable water-repellent (DWR) finish – just like a shell jacket. The difference is that a work garment takes far more punishment: abrasion against tools and surfaces, oil and grease bonding into the fibres, and repeated hot washing that breaks the finish down much faster. The result is fabric that starts to soak up water, feels clammy and heavy, and picks up dirt more easily. The fix is rarely new clothing – usually a thorough clean and a fresh re-proof is enough.

Always wash first – and get the oil out

Fresh proofing will not bond to grease, oil or detergent residue. On workwear, oil and industrial soil are the main culprits, so an ordinary wash is often not enough.

1. Empty every pocket, close zips and hook-and-loop fastenings, and brush off loose dirt and dust.
2. Pre-treat oil and grease marks with a degreaser or technical pre-wash before the main cycle.
3. Wash with a technical detergent made for functional garments – not ordinary detergent with fragrance and additives.
4. Skip fabric softener entirely: it forms a film and works against the proofing.
5. Run an extra rinse to clear all residue before you proof.

Wash-in or spray for workwear?

Proofing comes as a wash-in you add in the machine and as a spray you apply on the outside. The right choice depends on the garment:

• Wash-in gives even coverage and is practical for coveralls and trousers in plain cotton or poly-cotton with no lining or membrane.
• Spray lets you steer the product to where wear is greatest, and is best on garments with a lining, membrane or a lot of reflective tape – so you do not needlessly coat the inside.

Activate with heat and reinforce the wear zones

Most DWR finishes are woken by gentle heat. Check the care label first, but usually you can tumble dry the garment briefly on low heat, or iron it on a low setting with a cloth in between. On workwear it pays to give extra attention to the zones that wear first – shoulders, seat, knees and forearms – where the fabric starts soaking up water long before the rest. Finish with the drop test: if water beads on the shoulders and knees, the finish has taken.

When should workwear go to professionals?

Some workwear you should not experiment with at home. Certified high-visibility (hi-vis) clothing loses reflectivity over time, and the wrong wash or a thick layer of proofing can weaken visibility further – here the maker's instructions must be followed closely. Flame-retardant (FR) workwear is even more critical: ordinary fabric softener and proofing products not approved for FR garments can leave flammable residue and compromise the fire protection. If you are unsure, or the garment also needs a repair – a zip, a seam or reinforcement in worn zones – you can send it to us. We clean and re-proof according to the garment and its care label, and handle the repair in the same round. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions