How to Remove Grass Stains – Step by Step

Grass stains are two stains in one

A grass stain is really two problems in the same spot. The green comes from chlorophyll, a natural dye almost like a textile colour, while plant sap, protein and sugars bond the stain firmly to the fibres. That is why soap and water are not enough: you have to both dissolve the green pigment and break down the protein. Grass clings especially easily to cotton – knees of trousers, sportswear and children's clothes – and sets quickly if it dries in.

Do not use hot water first

The protein part of grass behaves like blood: heat sets it permanently. So always rinse and pre-treat with cold or lukewarm water, and never tumble dry the garment until the stain is completely gone – heat from the dryer or iron locks it in. Scrape or brush off loose grass first; do not rub it deeper in with your fingers.

How to lift the stain – step by step

With a little patience, most fresh grass stains come out at home.

1. Brush or scrape off loose grass and soil with a blunt knife or a toothbrush – dry, without rubbing it in.
2. Place a clean, light-coloured cloth under the stain, and test surgical spirit on a hidden spot (an inside seam) to check the colour can take it.
3. Dab the green with a little surgical spirit or isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud, from the back, so the pigment travels down into the cloth beneath – move to a clean part of the cloth as it stains.
4. Work an enzyme (bio) liquid detergent or an oxygen-based stain remover into the mark, and let it sit 15–30 minutes without drying out.
5. Wash at the warmest temperature the care label allows, and check the stain is fully gone before you dry it.

Enzymes and oxygen – what actually works

Two things do most of the work on grass:

• Enzyme ('bio') detergent: the enzymes (protease) break down the protein and plant sap that hold the stain in place.
• Oxygen-based, colour-safe bleach: lifts the green chlorophyll pigment without attacking the colour the way chlorine does.
• A little white vinegar (mild acid) can loosen residue before the main wash.
• Skip chlorine bleach on coloureds, wool and silk – it strips colour and damages the fibres.

Wool, silk and technical sportswear

Enzyme detergent is excellent on cotton, but it should not be used on wool and silk: these are protein fibres themselves, and the enzymes can break them down. Alcohol and hard rubbing can also dull silk and felt wool. Technical sportswear with a membrane will not take strong solvents or bleaches either. If you are unsure of the fabric, or the stain is large or dried in, professional cleaning is safer than experimenting.

Send the garment to us

If you cannot get the stain out, or you would rather not risk a delicate or expensive garment, you can send it to us from anywhere in Norway. We clean according to the fabric and care label, and you describe the stain when you order so it is treated correctly. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions