Relining a Jacket – When and How

Why the lining wears out before the jacket

A lining is chosen so the jacket slides on and off easily, not to take the most punishment. That is why it is usually a thin, slippery fabric – viscose, acetate, cupro (Bemberg) or silk – that meets all the wear: the elbows, the back, the sleeves and above all the underarms, where sweat and movement work against it every day. A good outer fabric can outlive several linings. So when a lining tears, it rarely means the jacket is worn out – only that its innermost and most exposed layer has done its job.

Repair or replace the whole lining?

A clean split along a single seam is a simple seam repair. But when the lining fails in several places at once, the whole lining is usually ready for replacement. Signs it should be fully replaced:

• The fabric tears again right next to a seam you just fixed – the fabric itself is spent, not the seam.
• Acetate lining that has gone brittle and yellow, and frays when you touch it.
• The sleeve lining is shredded or gone at the underarm, while the rest may still be intact.
• The lining is worn thin and see-through across the back or at the vent.

What a reline actually involves

A full reline is more than sewing in a new piece of fabric. The old lining is carefully unpicked and used as a pattern, so the new lining takes exactly the same shape. It is then rebuilt against the shell with the same details that give the jacket room to move.

1. The old lining is unpicked piece by piece and used as the template for the new one.
2. New lining fabric is cut in the same weight and shape as the original.
3. The movement pleats are built back in – the pleat down the centre back and the loose fold at the hem that stops the lining from pulling tight.
4. The lining is sewn to the front edges, sleeves and neckline, and pressed at the end so it settles evenly inside the jacket.

Choose the right lining fabric

The new lining should match the original in weight and smoothness. Too heavy a lining changes how the jacket hangs; too thin and slippery a one wears out fast again. Common choices:

• Viscose and cupro (Bemberg): smooth, breathable and antistatic – the classic for suit jackets and coats.
• Acetate: inexpensive with a nice sheen, but less durable over time.
• Quilted or warmer lining: an option in outerwear if you want a little more insulation than the original.
• Colour and sheen should match the garment, especially where the lining flashes at the lapel, cuff or vent.

Combine several jobs in one go

Once the jacket is open for a reline, it is at its most accessible for other work that needs to reach the inside. That makes it the practical moment to replace a worn zip at the same time, or take the jacket in at the waist, rather than opening the garment twice. Think through whether the garment needs more than just a new lining before the work starts.

Send the jacket to us

A full reline means rebuilding the garment from the inside, and the result depends on the new lining being cut and fitted correctly. If the jacket is worth keeping – a good coat, a suit jacket or an heirloom – you can send it to us, and we will replace the lining and handle other repairs in the same round. We work across Norway, you order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions