How to Sew an Invisible (Blind) Hem

What an invisible hem actually is

A plain hem stitches straight through the fabric, so you see a stitch line on the outside – perfectly fine on jeans and sporty trousers. An invisible hem, or blind hem, works differently: you fold up the hem allowance, and for each stitch the needle catches only one or two threads of the trouser leg itself. The result is a hem that holds without anything showing on the right side. Choose a blind hem on smart fabrics like wool, suiting and chinos, and a visible seam where it suits the style.

Measure and prepare the hem first

Whichever method you use, a good hem starts with the right length and a pressed fold. This step decides the result more than the sewing itself.

1. Put the trousers on with the shoes you will wear, and fold up to the length you want. Pin in place.
2. Measure the distance from the old edge upward, so both legs end up the same length.
3. Cut away excess fabric, but leave enough to fold in a clean edge (usually a couple of centimetres).
4. Finish the raw edge with an overcast stitch or zigzag if the fabric frays easily.
5. Press the fold with an iron before you sew – a pressed hem is far easier to sew invisibly.

Invisible hem by hand

Hand sewing gives the most control and is genuinely doable at home with a little patience. Use a fine needle and thread that matches the fabric colour.

1. Fold the hem edge down a couple of millimetres, so you sew against a folded edge rather than a raw one.
2. Anchor the thread in the folded edge, not in the trouser leg.
3. Take a tiny stitch in the trouser leg catching only one or two threads – pull through, and check it does not leave a visible dot on the right side.
4. Take the next stitch in the folded edge, about a centimetre along. Alternate like this between edge and leg.
5. Keep the thread loose – do not pull tight, or you will get dimples and puckering on the outside.

Invisible hem on a sewing machine

Most sewing machines have a blind-hem programme and a dedicated blind-hem foot. It is faster than by hand, but takes a little practice on a scrap first, because it is easy to catch too much or too little.

1. Set the machine to blind stitch (the symbol looks like a straight seam with a zigzag jump now and then).
2. Fold the fabric as your machine's guide shows – usually you fold the hem back so only a narrow edge sticks out.
3. Sew along the fold so the straight stitches run in the hem edge, and only the zigzag jump just catches the trouser leg.
4. Adjust the stitch width so the jump catches as little of the trouser leg as possible – just a few threads.
5. Unfold and press. Always test on a scrap of the same fabric before sewing the trousers themselves.

The most common mistakes

Nearly every problem with an invisible hem comes down to a few things that are easy to avoid once you know them.

• Thread too tight: creates small dimples or puckers on the right side. Keep the thread loose.
• Stitches too deep: catch too many threads and the stitches show as dots on the outside.
• Wrong thread colour: a shade too light or dark reveals the seam. Match the fabric, or go one shade darker.
• No pressing: an unpressed hem turns out lumpy and is hard to sew evenly.
• Thin or smooth fabric: here even small stitches show easily – hand sewing is often safer than the machine.

When should you leave it to a tailor?

If the trousers are lined, in fine wool or part of a suit, there is a lot to gain from an invisible hem that is completely clean on the right side – and that is exactly where the risk of dimples and visible stitches is greatest. A tailor hems with the right technique for the fabric, keeps both legs the same length and presses the hem crisply. If the trousers also need taking in or letting out at the same time, that can be done in one go. We accept garments from all over Norway, you order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions