How to Take In a Dress That Is Too Loose

Where a dress is taken in – three places

A dress is not shaped in only one spot. Before you start, decide where the excess width actually sits, because that decides which seam you open. The three most common places are:

• The side seams – the most common take-in. You remove width evenly on both sides, from the armhole down, so the side seam still hangs vertically.
• The center-back seam – if the dress has a seam or zip down the back, some width can come out there, but the zip has to be handled at the same time.
• Darts – small sewn folds that add shape at the waist and under the bust without moving the side seam itself. This is what sets a dress apart from a pair of straight trousers: the shape should follow the body's curves.

How to sew the side seams in

This is the core of the job. The key is to take in the same amount on each side and let the new seam blend smoothly into the old one – not a sharp step.

1. Put the dress on inside out, with the side seams lying flat.
2. Pinch in the excess width equally on both sides, and pin it in an even, gently curved line.
3. Mark the pin line with tailor's chalk, and take the dress off carefully.
4. Baste along the mark first, and try the dress on the right way out to check that it sits well.
5. Sew along the mark, letting the seam taper gradually into the original seam, and trim the excess seam allowance before you overcast or zigzag the edge.

Shape the waist with darts

If the dress fits over the bust and hips but bags at the waist, darts are the answer – not the side seams. A dart is a pointed, sewn fold that removes width exactly where you need it and gives the dress a defined waist. Two back darts (one either side of the center back) tidy up a baggy back, while front darts follow the bust. Always baste and try it on before you sew, because a dart that is too deep or too long pulls the fabric out of true.

The pitfalls: zips, lining and lopsidedness

This is where home sewing goes wrong most often. Check these before you begin:

• A zip in the side seam: it has to come out before the take-in and go back in afterwards – a far more demanding job than an open seam.
• Lining: a lined dress has a separate inner layer that must be taken in by the same amount as the outer fabric, or the lining pulls or bags.
• Lopsidedness: take in more on one side and the side seam falls out of plumb and the dress hangs crooked. Measure and mark equally on both sides.
• Stretch fabric: jersey and knit must be sewn with a stitch that copes with stretch (zigzag or overlock), or the seam snaps as you move.

When should the dress go to a tailor?

If the dress is lined, has a zip in the side seam, is made of a delicate, slippery or beaded fabric, or is a dress you cannot afford to ruin, it is safest to leave the job to professionals. We take the dress in to suit the garment and the fit, handle the lining and zip at the same time, and can adjust the length in the same round if it is also too long. You send the dress to us from anywhere in Norway, you order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions