Take In Knitwear – Altering Knit and Jersey Without the Seam Popping

Why knit has to be sewn differently

Knit and jersey are built from loops that stretch and spring back. A straight machine seam has no stretch, so when you pull the garment on, the seam locks the fabric – and the threads snap with a little 'pop'. The fix is a seam that stretches with the fabric, and a needle that slips between the loops instead of cutting them. Get those two things right and half the job is done.

The kit that makes it possible

The right tools matter more for knit than for woven fabric. Here is what you need:

• Ballpoint (jersey) needle: the rounded tip slides between the loops and does not make holes or ladders.
• Stretch stitch: a narrow zigzag, the built-in 'lightning' stitch on many machines, or an overlock/coverstitch if you have one.
• Polyester thread: it has a little give, unlike pure cotton thread which can snap.
• Walking foot: feeds the top and bottom layers evenly, so the seam does not turn out wavy.
• Ball-head pins and a good reference: a garment that fits well to measure against.

How to take in at the side seams

Most knit and jersey garments are easiest to take in at the side seams. Always work with the wrong side out.

1. Turn the garment inside out and try it on, or lay a well-fitting garment on top to find the new line.
2. Pin along the new seam, letting it run smoothly out to the old seam (a soft transition, no sharp kink).
3. Baste or mark the line so you can see it clearly as you sew.
4. Sew with a stretch stitch along the new line – without pulling the fabric as it feeds. Let the machine draw it through.
5. Gently stretch the seam with your hands and check that it gives without snapping.
6. Only then cut away the excess fabric and finish the edge with a zigzag or overlock.

Ribbing, chunky knit and fine knit

Not all knit behaves the same, and some types need extra thought.

• Ribbing (cuffs, waistbands, necklines): the whole point of ribbing is to stretch – take it in gently so you do not kill the stretch.
• Chunky hand or machine knit: loops come undone easily if you cut. Hand sewing with a catch stitch is often safer than cutting into the garment.
• Fine knit and loose jersey: frays and ladders quickly – finish the edge before you cut, and take small steps.
• A sweater with a pattern or texture: a seam through the middle of a pattern shows – place it where it is best hidden.

The most common mistakes

Nearly every failed take-in on knit comes down to the same four things.

• A straight seam instead of a stretch stitch: pops the first time the garment is stretched.
• Pulling the fabric as you sew: gives a wavy, puckered seam that will not lie flat.
• The wrong needle: a normal sharp needle cuts the loops and causes holes or skipped stitches.
• Cutting before you test: cut the fabric away before checking the stretch and there is no way back.

When should you send the garment to a professional?

If the garment is hand-knitted, in fine yarn like cashmere or merino, or important to you, the risk of ladders and a seam that will not give is too high to experiment with. It should then be taken in by someone who chooses the right stitch and needle for that particular knit, keeps the ribbing and shape intact, and sews so the garment keeps its stretch and fit. We accept garments from all over Norway, you order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions