Buying Used vs New? An Honest Checklist
By TaVare · updated 2026-09-23
Whether you should buy used or new depends on the garment: for most things, used is clearly the greenest and often the smartest choice financially, because a garment's biggest environmental cost is already paid the moment it is made. New mainly earns its place when fit, hygiene or technical performance demands it. Here's an honest checklist to choose well every time.
Why used almost always wins on the environment
Most of a garment's environmental footprint – water, energy, CO2, chemicals and fibre – happens when it is made, not while you wear it. Buying used extends the life of a garment that already exists and displaces the production of a new one. It is the single biggest move a consumer can make. Every extra year a garment stays in use drives its cost-per-wear and footprint down – without using a single new resource.
When new is still the right choice
Used should be the first choice, but sometimes new earns its place:
- Underwear, socks and swimwear – for reasons of hygiene.
- Technical garments whose performance is spent – a washed-out membrane or dead elastic – unless they can be re-proofed or repaired.
- Shoes that have moulded to someone else's foot.
- Garments where you need one specific fit or size and can't find it used.
- Protective and safety gear, where condition and certification must be guaranteed.
How to assess a second-hand garment
A quick quality check decides whether a find is worth the money:
- Hold the fabric to the light and look for thin, worn patches; tight, heavy weaves and natural fibres last longest.
- Feel the seams and zip – seams should be whole and even, and the zip should run smoothly.
- Look for pilling, holes, moth holes and stains, and judge whether they can be removed or repaired.
- Smell and check for mould – a musty smell is hard to shift, so steer clear.
- Try it on or measure it: a size too big is often easy to take in, a size too small is harder.
- Work out the cost-per-wear, not just the price tag.
Turn a second-hand find into a favourite
A second-hand piece often needs a little work before it becomes a favourite: a wash or refresh, a small repair – a button, a hem that has come down, a stuck zip freed – or an alteration so it fits right. This is what turns cheap and almost right into the garment you wear all the time, and it is still far cheaper and greener than buying new.
When a tailor makes the second-hand buy worth it
Most second-hand shopping needs nothing more than a wash, and that you handle yourself. But the best second-hand buys are often the ones that are perfect except for the fit or one small fault – a jacket a size too big, a hem too long, a zip that has failed. That is exactly where a professional alteration or repair pays for itself, because you get an as-new garment for a fraction of the price and the footprint. We alter and repair clothes across Norway, and you see the price before you order.
You see the price before you order.
Frequently asked questions
Is used always more environmentally friendly than new?+
Almost always, because the biggest footprint is in production. Using a garment that already exists saves new resources – however sustainable a new item is marketed as.
What should I always buy new?+
Underwear, socks and swimwear for hygiene, and protective gear where condition and certification must be assured. Otherwise used is usually a safe first choice.
How do I tell if a second-hand garment is good enough?+
Check the fabric against the light for wear, feel the seams and zip, and look for moth holes, pilling and mould. Small faults can often be repaired; a musty smell is best avoided.
The second-hand garment almost fits – is it worth altering?+
Often yes. A size too big is usually easy to take in, and a simple alteration turns a cheap find into a garment you actually wear. Work out the cost-per-wear.
Ready to fix it?