How Should a Shirt Fit? Shoulder, Collar and Body

The shoulder seam sets the rest

The shoulder is the most important point on a shirt, because it's the hardest to change afterwards. The seam where the sleeve meets the body should sit right on the edge of your shoulder – where the shoulder bone curves down toward the arm. If the seam sits inside the edge, the shirt is too small and strains; if it hangs down the upper arm, it's too big and makes a loose, sloppy shoulder. Because the shoulder frames the whole fit, this is the one to buy right from the start and adjust the body and sleeves around.

The collar: room for one finger

The collar should close comfortably around the neck with the top button fastened. The test is simple: you should get one finger between the collar and your neck – no more, no less. If it feels too tight, it pinches and bulges when you turn your head; if it's too wide, it stands away from the neck and a tie hangs loosely. A collar that fits frames the neck cleanly and holds its shape through the day.

Chest and body should follow your shape

Across the chest and body the shirt should lie close without straining and without hanging loose. Here's how to spot the extremes:

• Too tight: horizontal pull wrinkles or X-folds at the buttons, and gaping between the buttons when you breathe or sit.
• Too wide: large amounts of fabric ballooning at the sides and folding like a 'sail' when you tuck the shirt in.
• Right: a hand's width of fabric to pinch on each side at the waist – enough to move, not so much that it hangs.

Sleeve length and cuff

The sleeve should end at the wrist bone, roughly where the hand begins, so the cuff rests against the base of the hand when your arm hangs straight down. The cuff should sit snug enough that it won't slide over your hand when you reach – then it also holds a watch in place without pinching. If the sleeve is too long, it bunches in folds over the hand; too short, and the wrist is exposed as soon as you bend your arm. Sleeve length is one of the easiest things for a tailor to adjust.

Length decides whether the shirt stays tucked

The shirt length decides whether the garment stays looking neat. A shirt meant to be tucked in must be long enough to stay put when you raise your arms and bend – as a rule of thumb, the hem should reach some way down the seat. At the same time it shouldn't be so long that it bunches at the waistband. If the shirt is worn untucked, a shorter, straight finish at the hip looks tidier than a long curved tail. The right length is the difference between a shirt that looks tidy all day and one that keeps slipping out.

When should a tailor take in the shirt?

You can judge much of the fit yourself, but a shirt that's right across the shoulders yet too wide in the body is exactly what a tailor solves best. A tailor can take in the body with the side seams or back darts, slim the sleeves and shorten them, so a standard shirt follows your shape. The shoulder and collar set the limit on what can be changed – if they're right, the rest is usually possible. If you're unsure, you can send the shirt to us. We tailor across Norway according to the garment's fabric and cut, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions