How Should a Suit Fit? A Point-by-Point Guide

The shoulders decide everything

The shoulder line is the foundation of a suit, and it is the hardest and most expensive part to change afterwards. So the rule is simple: buy the suit for the shoulders, and have the rest tailored. A shoulder seam that ends in the wrong place makes the whole jacket look off, no matter what you do with the waist or sleeves.

1. Look at the shoulder seam: it should end exactly where your shoulder ends and your arm begins – neither inside nor beyond the shoulder bone.
2. Look for a small dent or bulge just below the seam on top of the sleeve. That means the shoulder is too big.
3. Look for wrinkles pulling diagonally from the shoulder. That means the jacket is too tight across the shoulders and back.
4. Check that the collar sits flat against your shirt collar all the way around, with no gap at the back of the neck.

Chest and buttoning

With the jacket buttoned, the chest should lie smoothly against your body without gaping and without straining. On a two-button jacket you fasten the top button, on a three-button the middle one – never the bottom. The easiest test is to look for the X: if wrinkles spread out from the button in an X shape, the jacket is too tight across the chest.

• You should be able to slip a flat hand inside the jacket at the chest when it's buttoned – enough room, but not too much.
• The lapels should lie flat against the chest, not bow out or lift away.
• No X-wrinkles around the button, and no gap between the collar and your neck.
• Always unbutton the jacket when you sit down – a suit jacket is not meant to stay buttoned while seated.

Sleeves and sleeve length

Sleeve length is one of the first things the eye catches, and luckily one of the easiest things to change. The jacket sleeve should end at your wrist bone, so that about a centimetre of shirt cuff shows beneath it. If too much shirt shows, the jacket sleeve is too short; if it covers your hand, it's too long. A tailor can correct either, as long as there is fabric to work with.

Jacket length and balance

The jacket length sets the proportions of the whole suit. A classic length covers the seat and curves just under the backside, dividing your upper and lower body roughly in half. A simple test: let your arms hang relaxed – your fingertips should reach about the bottom edge of the jacket, and you should be able to curl your fingers around the hem. Too short looks boyish; too long makes your legs look short. Length can be adjusted somewhat, but it moves the pockets and balance, so buy as close to the right length as you can.

Trousers: waist, seat and length

Suit trousers should sit securely at the waist without a belt cinching them into place, lie smoothly over the seat without sagging or straining, and taper evenly down to the shoe. At the hem you decide how much 'break' you want – a slight bend where the trouser meets the shoe is the safe middle ground. Waist, shape and length are all among the most common and straightforward alterations on a suit.

When the fit needs a tailor

No off-the-rack suit fits perfectly everywhere from the start – which is exactly why tailoring exists. If you've bought for the shoulders and chest, a tailor can take in the waist, taper the cut, shorten the sleeves and adjust the length of jacket and trousers, so an off-the-rack suit looks made to measure. If you're unsure what to change, or want several adjustments in one go, you can send the suit to us – we tailor across Norway according to the garment's fabric and cut. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions