How Long Should Trousers Be? Length and Break

The break decides the length

Trouser length isn't measured in centimetres alone, but in how the hem meets the shoe. That meeting point is called the 'break' – the small fold that appears when the trousers are long enough to rest on the shoe. A lot of break gives a classic, covering length; little or no break gives a clean, modern look. Because break depends on both shoe height and trouser width, this – not a number on a tape measure – is what you should steer by when deciding the length.

The most common types of break

The break describes how much the trouser folds over the shoe, from nothing to a clear fold. Here is how the four most common ones look:

• No break: the hem just reaches the shoe without folding. Clean and modern, often on slim trousers and ankle lengths.
• Slight break (quarter): just a hint of a fold at the front. Elegant and a safe choice for most dress trousers.
• Half break: one clear fold over the instep. Classic and a little more covering.
• Full break: the fabric rests well on the shoe with several folds. Traditional and relaxed, but can look too long on slim cuts.

How to measure the right length yourself

Length is best judged on yourself, with the shoes you'll actually wear with the trousers. Here's how to do it in front of the mirror:

1. Put on the shoes you most often wear with the garment – shoe height changes the length noticeably.
2. Stand up straight and relaxed on a flat floor, with your weight evenly on both feet.
3. Let the trousers hang naturally from the waist where you usually wear them.
4. Fold the hem up to the break you want at the front, and pin or clip it in place.
5. Sit down and stand up again – check the hem still looks right in movement.

Length varies with the trouser type

There's no single answer that suits every trouser – the right length follows the cut and the use:

• Dress trousers: slight to half break, often a touch longer at the back. Should look clean with a smart outfit.
• Chinos: no break to slight break. A little shorter gives a lighter, more casual look.
• Jeans: personal – from ankle length to a light stack over the shoe. Consider whether you cuff them.
• Wide trousers: a longer length that falls cleanly, often half to full break to hold the shape.
• Ankle length: deliberately short, ending above or at the ankle bone. Common on slim and cropped cuts.

Front, back and a slight slant

Trousers are rarely the same length front and back. The front is set by the break over the shoe, while the back is usually a little longer and covers more of the heel – the hem slants gently downward at the back. If the back is too long, it drags on the ground and wears quickly; too short, and the heel is exposed and the trousers look shabby. Check both in the mirror: the front should rest with your chosen break, and the back should end roughly where the heel meets the sole.

When should a tailor hem the trousers?

You can make the length choice yourself – it's fixing the hem permanently without ruining the shape that is the craft. A tailor hems the trousers with the right break at the front and fall at the back, can keep the original hem where needed, and handles the lining, cuffs and heavy seams that are easy to get wrong at home. If the trousers are expensive, lined or have a special hem you want to keep, it's worth sending them in. We hem trousers across Norway according to the fabric and cut, and you see the price before you order.

Frequently asked questions