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Reline and alter a garment at the same time

By TaVare · updated 2026-09-23

If you need both a new lining and a change of fit on a garment, it almost always pays to do both at the same time. The reason is simple: both jobs require the same seams to be opened, and doing them separately means opening and closing the garment twice – and cutting into the fresh lining again. Here is why the two jobs connect, what relining actually involves, and the order that gives the best result.

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Why do two jobs in one round?

Both a reline and an alteration start by opening the same seams. Do them together and the garment is deconstructed once – less handling, less wear on the outer fabric, and a cleaner result. Reline first and alter later, and the fresh lining has to be cut open again to follow the new fit. You have paid to sew a lining that no longer matches the shape of the garment.

When the lining and the fit are connected

The two are technically linked, not just convenient to combine. The lining is sewn to the same side seams and shoulders that determine the fit.

  • Take in the shell without adjusting the lining and the lining is left too wide, bunching or pulling inside the garment.
  • A worn lining often shows up at the same time you have changed size – both surface once a garment has had heavy use.
  • A new lining should be fitted to the garment's new shape, not the old one – otherwise the lining works against the fit you just paid for.

What relining actually involves

It is worth knowing what the job is before you decide. A full reline is among the more advanced sewing projects out there.

  1. The old lining is carefully unpicked from the seams all around the garment.
  2. It is used as a pattern to cut the new lining to the right shape.
  3. The new lining is sewn together and reattached to the shell, sleeves and hem – often 'bagged' in by machine so the seams are hidden.
  4. If the lining only has a small tear or a loose hem, a patch or partial repair is a far easier home job – it is the full reline that is advanced.

The order that gives the best result

When both jobs are being done, the order decides whether the result is good. The fit must be settled first, because it defines the shape the lining has to follow.

  • Decide the new fit first – the take-in or let-out defines the shell's new seams.
  • Cut and fit the lining to that shape, not the other way around.
  • Do both in the same session so the measurements match and you avoid having to open the garment again.

When it pays to send the garment in

A full reline combined with taking in or letting out a lined jacket, blazer or coat is exactly the kind of job where a professional saves you opening the same seams twice – and gives you a lining that actually follows the new shape. If it is only a small tear in the lining, you can patch that yourself. If the garment needs both, we do them in one round. You order online, and you see the price before you order.

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Frequently asked questions

Can I reline and take in the jacket in the same job?+

Yes, and it is the smart order: decide the fit first, then cut the lining to the new shape. That way the seams are opened only once, instead of the fresh lining having to be cut open again later.

Do I have to replace the whole lining if it's just a tear?+

No. A tear or a loose hem in the lining can be patched or repaired. A full reline is for lining that is worn out or torn across large parts of the garment.

Why not just take in the shell and leave the lining?+

Because the lining is sewn to the same seams. Take in the shell without the lining and the lining is left too wide, bunching or pulling inside the garment.

Is it harder to alter a garment that has a lining?+

Yes. Lined garments are more work, because the lining has to be opened and closed too. That is exactly why it pays to combine a reline with the alteration in one round.

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